by Hiufu Wong
Anatoly Komm, chef of Russia's first haute cuisine restaurant, Varvary, has turned Russian black bread -- that hard-as-cement staple -- into a dainty dollop of brown pudding.
Following a switch in career paths, Komm has been all about using his cooking to alter perceptions of Russian culture. He was a geophysicist and luxury fashion importer in a former life before becoming a chef of haute cuisine.
"When people think about Russia, they only think about vodka and caviar," said Komm. "We also have other amazing ingredients and I want to open people?s eyes to this so that they can better understand the Russian soul."
Komm is in Hong Kong this week at the pop-up Varvary at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, unleashing the Russian spirit onto the city's palates.
The original Varvary, located in Moscow, was included on the list of "World's 50 best restaurants" in 2011 -- the first Russian restaurant to make the cut. The word "varvary" is Russian for "barbarian." It's Komm's touch of confrontational irony.
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